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lOCal rEcommendations

SIGHTSEEING
Musei del Bargello
Il Bargello has seen Florence's power players come and go since 1255. Throughout its long history, it has been the residence of the head of police, a prison, the meeting place of the Council of the Hundred (a government entity of which Dante Alighieri was part), and, since the mid-nineteenth century, a museum. The many halls and galleries are full of sculptures, including several works by Donatello.
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SIGHTSEEING

Boboli Gardens

During the Renaissance, landscaping was considered just as important as the architecture. Behind the Pitti Palace, the Boboli Gardens are a maze of grottos, fountains, and tree tunnels that set the tone for an Italianate style rapidly adopted by the palaces of Europe. Don't miss the cerchiate grande—a long avenue of trees planted in 1612 that have grown into each other, forming the loveliest tunnel of shade.

SIGHTSEEING
Tempio Maggiore
It's a little out of the way, but the Tempio Maggiore is worth visiting for its historical value and sheer magnificence. Nearly destroyed during World War II—local Italian partisans defused the bombs in the nick of time—the synagogue was built in the late 1880s for the local Sephardi community. The interior, inspired by southern Spain's architecture and the Hagia Sofia, is quite Moorish—full of rich mosaics, marble, and stained glass. The Tempio Maggiore is still in use today. Afterward, a visit to Ruth's for the best kosher spread in town (with excellent vegetarian options) is mandatory.

RESTAURANT
13 Gobbi

Despite being a few minutes from Piazza Santa Maria Novella and a stone's throw from Florence's most famous hotels, 13 Gobbi feels like a local secret. The chatter that fills the room is primarily Italian. The old wooden chairs and tables, black-and-white photographs on the brick walls, and generally laid-back, rustic air are distinctly Tuscan. The food is even more so—grilled steak Florentine served medium rare and room temperature (as it's meant to be), white beans and spinach, and the most perfect plates of homemade spaghetti al pomodoro. Take a seat in the leafy courtyard and order all of the above, plus a Caprese salad and a bottle of the vino rosso della casa.

RESTAURANT
Brac

It's not easy to come by vegan food in Italy, and it's impossible to come by good vegan food. Libreria Brac is the exception to the rule. A restaurant-meets-bookstore-meets-bar, it's run by a group of young Italians looking to modernize the city's cuisine (if just a little). Have a glass of wine as you browse the selection of design and culinary books, or head straight to the restaurant for dishes like a zucchini and cashew cheese galette, hearty soups and salads, and delicious vegan pasta.

RESTAURANT

Trattoria Camillo

Oltrarno—the other (oltro) side of the Arno—is home to some of the city's best restaurants. Trattoria Camillo is that kind of old-world, white-tablecloth, monogrammed-plates place that serves up simple Tuscan food, elevated with perfect ingredients and careful preparation. The menu is seasonal, and autumn is our favorite time to stop in for one reason: ribollita. Translating directly as "reboiled," this traditional soup is made of layers of vegetables, beans, and stale bread (and it's much more appetizing than it sounds). After starting with a bowl of this Tuscan staple, try the celery, egg, and bottarga side dish (which can be a meal.)

APERIVITO

Caffé Gilli

The oldest café in Florence was founded (ironically) by a Swiss family in 1733, initially as a bozzolari, or doughnut shop. These days, the sweet selection has expanded to include hundreds of traditional Italian pastries, chocolates, cakes, and the chewiest nougat. The interior resembles a grand stateroom, with wood-paneled walls, stucco detailing, and glittering chandeliers. Despite the elegant allure of a seated inside at breakfast, the afternoon cocktail hour is best enjoyed outside. Sit at a table with a spritz and an assortment of sandwiches and snacks and watch the world fly by.

SIGHTSEEING
Palazzo Pitti
Designed in the 1400s, the Palazzo Pitti has been the home to various Florentine dynasties for centuries. Today, the immense structure is divided into four museums: The Palatine Gallery contains collections of Medici-owned paintings; the Gallery of Modern Art is home to works from the Neoclassical period up to the 1930s; the Treasury of the Grand Dukes displays the Medicis' decorative arts; and lastly, there's a costume museum. We love to wander around the beautifully preserved royal apartments to see the furnishings, tapestries, ornate silk wallpaper, and tables inlaid with precious stones.
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SIGHTSEEING
Vasari Corridor

A secret passage spanning close to a mile across Florence, Cosimo de Medici built the Vasari Corridor to traverse the city—and the Arno River—from the Palazzo Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti safely and secretly. Enter from the Uffizi, which feels like passing into Narnia. The narrow corridor is filled with sixteenth- and seventeenth-century artworks and self-portraits by several artists, including Andrea del Sarto, Marc Chagall, and Delacroix. Don't forget to look out the windows as you cross the Ponte Vecchio—yes, it will be packed with tourists, but yes, it will be worth it—to see the most beautiful parts of the city, as intended by the architect, Giorgio Vasari.

SIGHTSEEING
Galleria dell'accademia

The Accademia is famously the home of Michelangelo's David, long considered by Florentines a symbol of their city's strength, fighting off nearby foreign aggressors (remember, Italy has only been a unified country since 1871). A relatively new addition to the gallery is the instruments section, full of pieces like violins made by Stradivarius and a piano constructed by Bartolomeo Cristofori (the piano inventor), commissioned by the Medici family.

RESTAURANT
Borgo antico

This relaxed trattoria in the Santo Spirito neighborhood is one of the better places anywhere in the city for satisfying basics, like pizza and pasta al pomodoro. Service can be Italian, so be prepared to wait a bit—this will be a more leisurely meal. If you're lucky, you'll sit outside overlooking the local piazza. It's like real-life theater, and tourists are few and far between.

RESTAURANT
Il Santo Bevitore

Maybe it's the dozens of lit candles and their gentle, suffused light. Perhaps it's the army of wine bottles against the wood-paneled walls. Or maybe it's knowledge that we're about to eat a really, really good dinner that makes us return here over and over again. Artichoke-stuffed squid, rich duck breasts, and hearty risotto are all reasons to come for dinner. If there's a wait, grab a glass of something fizzy and locally produced at nearby Santino for the perfect start to the evening.

RESTAURANT

Cibrèo

There's no pasta at Cibrèo, nor is there a menu. Instead, a server explains what's available for the evening from chef Fabio Picchi (who has four establishments in the city, including his trattoria of the same name next door). Cibrèo is well-loved by tourists and locals alike, so don't be discouraged if your waiter speaks perfect English. Despite the formal dining room, it's a laid-back place—if you can't decide between two mains, perhaps they'll give you a taste of both. If three of the desserts sound appealing, smaller portions might appear at the end of the meal. It's all very personal and warm, which is why we come here.

APERIVITO

la Terrazza at Hotel Continentale

Florence at dusk is pure magic. And there's no better observation point (other than perhaps Piazzale Michelangelo) to soak up the changing colors of the evening sky than at La Terrazza. The bar is (as the name suggests) a small terrace hovering over the Arno, buffered from the winter wind and summer scorch by stone walls on three sides. It's small, chic, and cozy. Book a seat for sunset and prepare for the best view in town with a buzzy atmosphere to match.

APERIVITO

Dondino

Grab a table outside at this little local wine bar and take in every nook and cranny of the stunning Church of Santa Croce as you sip your Vino Nobile. In winter, retreat inside to the warm bar with its stone walls, candles, and charcuterie platters.

COFFEE & GILATO

Ditta artigianale

A morning café (black) or macchiato (marked with milk) is sacrosanct in the country. And very often, those are about your only options. But not so here, where Francesco Sanapo modernizes Florence's coffee (and brunch) game. There are two locations, though the original on Via dei Neri is our favorite. Staff at Ditta are happy to make you an almond milk flat white or a cold-brew iced coffee, and even the filtered options are great, thanks to the in-house roaster. There are also pastries, polenta cake, and biscotti to dip in your coffee for breakfast (as well as pancakes and baked eggs if you're homesick). The space becomes a lively bar at night that favors all things gin.

APERVITO

rivoire

Breakfast at your local café in Italy is a ritual as social as it is caffeinating. The centuries-old habit has led to the proliferation of especially beautiful ones and grand salons across the country. In Florence, no spot is more elegant than Rivoire. The feeling is very old-world, with a mahogany bar, white tablecloths, and suited-up waiters flying around with silver platters high above their heads. Take a seat in front and settle in among the elderly Florentines with their newspapers and machiattos, or sip a café standing at the bar as most locals do. In the colder months, wrap up and brave the outdoors with a view of the statue of David (disclaimer: The statue outside is a stand-in for the real deal, which is safely inside the museum) and the Accademia while savoring Rivoire's ridiculously indulgent hot chocolate.

SHOPPING

richard Ginori

Richard Ginori's dinnerware is fit for dinner with a royal family or at least a dozen aristocrats in the same artisanal league as Loretta Caponi's silks and linens. The delicately painted Florentine porcelain plates, cups, saucers, and serving dishes are displayed like works of art. The business was run by the Ginori family from its inception in 1735 until the early 1920s, and the quality of each piece is still exceptional all these years later.

SALON & SPA

Contrasto aVEDa lifestyle Salon & SPa

Aveda salons offer a luxurious, comprehensive beauty and wellness experience, combining high-quality, plant-based products with personalized services. Known for their commitment to sustainability and holistic wellness, Aveda incorporates soothing rituals like scalp massages and aromatherapy into treatments. With a focus on natural ingredients and environmentally responsible practices, visiting an Aveda salon is a rejuvenating experience that enhances both inner and outer beauty.

SHOPPING

luisa Via roma

Luisa Via Roma is Italy's (arguably better) answer to Barneys. The store is big—but not too big—and strictly curated to show off the best Italian fashion and the most avant-garde of the international companies. Expect Fendi and Fiorucci alongside Versace, Yeezy, and Paul Andrew. The sublime jewelry edit features hard-to-find brands like Delfina Delettrez and Aurélie Bidermann. There's also a terrace bar for a post-shopping cocktail.

SHOPPING

loretta Caponi

Loretta Caponi and her daughter Lucia are the women at the helm of this atelier—it's filled with the most beautiful handmade sheets, pillowcases, slippery-soft silk nightwear that conjures up images of an old-world wedding trousseau, and embroidered linen tablecloths fit for feasts. Signora Caponi takes orders but asks for a month's notice for delivery.

SHOPPING

Temple St. Clair

Native Virginian Temple St. Clair crafted her first-ever piece of jewelry in Florence; when summering in the city, she came upon a goldsmith at work and never looked back. Nowadays, the antique pieces of fine jewelry designers are still made utilizing the skill of Florence's artisans and goldsmiths, and they can be seen at her first brick-and-mortar store among the Italian jewelers on the Ponte Vecchio.

SALON

fabio colucci

Located in the heart of Florence, this renowned salon specializes in cutting and coloring. With a highly qualified team dedicated to exceptional service, the salon offers an unforgettable experience for visitors looking to refresh their look in a stylish and welcoming setting.

SHOPPING
Gucci Museum
Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele conceived this multi-hyphenated space with the company's in-house art curator. It took over two years to complete and now contains a garden, a museum, a store, and a restaurant helmed by Massimo Bottura (of Osteria Francescana fame)—everything created through the lens of Gucci. Anyone who appreciates design and fashion history will find the experience fascinating.
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SIGHTSEEING
The Uffizi

Take your time at the Uffizi. Go early in the summer or winter months to beat the crowds and amble at your leisure across the two horseshoe-shaped floors of galleries and staterooms with their breathtaking collection of Renaissance masterpieces. There is nothing like seeing Botticelli's dreamy Birth of Venus or Artemisia Gentileschi's grizzly Judith Beheading Holofernes in person. Book online to jump the line and get the combination ticket for the Uffizi, Boboli Gardens, and Pitti Palace to save time

RESTAURANT
alla Vecchia Bettola

With its floor-to-ceiling tiles, hanging cured meats, rustic wood tables dotted with carafes of house red, and bottles of oil and vinegar—to be liberally doused on salads—Alla Vecchia Bettola is the essence of Florence. Since the late '70s, the restaurant's staying power is rooted in its solid, no-fuss menu of tender steak Florentine, desserts of fresh fruit and tiramisu, and pasta. Long, communal tables mean guests often sit with people they don't know, filling the restaurant with the convivial buzz and friendly chatter of strangers.

RESTAURANT

Enoteca Pinchiorri

If you're looking for Michelin stars (plural) in Florence, Enoteca Pinchiorri is your place. A former Renaissance palazzo, the wine cellar alone is rumored to be the most expensive—and expansive—in the world, with over 70,000 bottles. The food, meanwhile, is wildly inventive (pigeon cooked under a salty cocoa bean crust with mango chutney, red mullet fillets wrapped in Tuscan bread with candied fennel purée in extra virgin olive oil and stewed sea snails). Ask to sit in the restaurant's beautiful, airy courtyard to listen to the live pianist. The experience is utterly charming.

RESTAURANT

Trattoria Sostanza

Busy, casual, and no-frills, Sostanza is the Florentine equivalent of your reliable neighborhood standby. The traditional and tasty food hits the spot: simple pasta, tender grilled meats, and house Chianti. The space is tiled and tiny, and the delicious plates of artichoke omelets, reasonably priced steak Florentine, and their famous buttered chicken make Sostanza a definite don't-miss. (If the chocolate chip meringue with tiny, wild strawberries is on the menu for dessert—order two.) Cash only, no coffee.

APERIVITO

Harry’s Bar

Harry's Bar in Venice is most famous for reputedly creating the sublime peach-purée-and-prosecco mashup that is the Bellini. The Florence outpost has the same sense of frivolity as its Venetian counterpart, and taking a seat at the bar and watching the white-jacketed barman whizz up the signature cocktail is a fun way to pass an hour or two. The space is elegant and charmingly old-fashioned, with chevron floors and pink tablecloths. If Bellinis aren't your thing, you can't go wrong with the expertly made Negroni Sbagliato and the best steak tartare in Florence.

SHOPPING

Mercato Sant’ambrogio

If you've enjoyed dinner at one of Florence's better restaurants, there's a good chance the produce came from this market. Ten minutes from Piazza del Duomo, Mercato Sant'Ambrogio is open daily and is the ideal spot to fill up on vegetables and fruit—or a panino from Semel, which we heartily recommend—if you've maxed out on pasta but not on carbs in general. The nearby Enoteca Sant'Ambrogio is a wonderful spot to taste some bold Tuscan reds or spend the late afternoon after browsing the market.

SHOPPING

Il Torchio

There's no better spot to pick up leatherbound journals and writing paper than at Il Torchio, which sells carta marmorizzata—sheets thicker than average paper and slightly marbled. (A resin or glue helps attach floating pigments to the paper; once out of the water, the pigments are combed or sponged to create patterns.) Il Torchio should be an essential stop for those who appreciate the art of a handwritten letter on quality stationery—and we do—and we do.

SHOPPING

Santa Maria Novella

The original Santa Maria Novella apothecary (purported to be the oldest pharmacy in the world, founded by Dominican monks in the thirteenth century) is finished with ornate, frescoed ceilings and eighteenth-century furniture. But insanely beautiful interiors aside, you're here for the products. The shop's shelves are stocked with delicate bottles of heavenly-scented fragrances, body oils, and soaps that will dress up even the most banal bathroom. It also carries our favorite rose water facial mist and a selection of tinctures and smelling salts (it is an apothecary, after all). A recent addition is the pretty tea room out back for an afternoon shopping break.

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SIGHTSEEING

Florence's historic 'wine windows'

Florence's "wine windows" (buchette di vino) are a unique piece of history. Dating back nearly 500 years, these small openings in palazzo walls were originally used to sell Tuscan wines like Chianti directly to locals. Recently revived during the pandemic, these windows now serve glasses of wine, espresso, gelato, and more at spots like Cantina de’ Pucci and Babae Restaurant. Strolling through Florence, you’ll find these delightful remnants of Renaissance culture, a testament to the city’s rich history and innovation.

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